This week's tips cover the problems of orchid reblooming. Reblooming questions are the questions we receive more than any other, so Steve Frowine provided these tips to get your orchids to rebloom:
When the blooming season for your orchid finally arrives, a common mistake of beginners is neglecting to increase watering frequency as the buds begin to form. Since blooms are mostly water (as is the rest of the orchid,) and the proper potting media typically drains quickly, the extra water needed by the buds may not be available if you don't increase your frequency of watering. If your buds are shriveling or the blooms are small and malformed (and there are no pests or diseases attacking your orchids,) then the problem is most likely inadequate water. Remember to use water that is room temperature or slightly warmer.
Many bugs seem to consider new buds as a delicacy; even mice and cockroaches may be attracted by the first scent of fragrant blooms. When the the buds first starting poking out, give your orchids a good inspection, peering under the leaves and in the cracks for mealy bugs, aphids, and any other potential predator. Aphids also love new leaf sprouts so check the entire plant and media surface. If you spot a few pests, try removing them with cotton swabs and washing them off with plain warm water; inspect again daily. Although mild soapy water will probably not damage the buds, avoid any treatment other than water until it's clear that water alone will not clear the pest problem. If you must use commercial pesticides, follow the instructions carefully and use the weakest solution prescribed; avoid applying the pesticide solution on the buds.
If your mature orchid is not budding at all during the normal bloom season for your orchid, you likely have a more serious imbalance in one of the fundamentals of water, light, or temperature. Looking at light first, check the color of the leaves. If the newer leaves are dark green and the newer leaves are longer than the older-growth leaves, you need to increase the light intensity to your orchids. Move it closer to a window, or to a brighter window, or closer to your artificial lamp. Do this gradually over a few days, slowly increasing the light intensity. Within a 2-3 weeks, you should see a difference in leaf color, and you may get some blooms in this bloom season.
Most orchids expect a wide variation in day and night temperatures, as much as 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and some orchids will not bloom without this variation. In houses with efficient heat and air-conditioning systems, it may be hard to find a spot in the house where the temperature drops 15 degrees at night. Fortunately, your best natural light position, the windowsill, is also the most likely spot of wide temperature variation. Purchase a minimum-maximum thermometer at any hardware store and check the temperature ranges at the windows in your house. If you find a good windowsill for temperature, also check the light intensity at that spot before moving your orchid. A westward-facing window may provide the best temperature range, but the sunlight may be too strong and require a light-filtering curtain to avoid sun burn spots on your orchid.
If your orchid is not blooming and wiggles loosely in the pot, it's probable that the orchid has root damage caused by overwatering or deteriorated media. Knock the plant out of the pot and inspect the roots for rot, leaving only roots that are stiff and healthy. Hopefully you will see some green root tips that tell you that the orchid will recover. Repot in new media and reduce your watering frequency. It's likely that you won't see blooms in the current blooming season, but the following season has a good chance for healthy, beautiful blooms.
